Archive for November, 2006

1

Food Post

Posted by Greg T. on November 27th, 2006 in Uncategorized

Opposing food escapades…

I’m a pho connoisseur. Pho is the staple noodle soup dish of Vietnam, North Vietnam in particular. It’s eaten at all times of day, but mostly for breakfast and sometimes dinner. There are thousands of hole in the wall/street pho stands around Hanoi. Pho from one of these stands tops U.S. pho any day, but mediocre pho won’t do. Thanks to this guy’s blog about Hanoi food (stickyrice.typepad.com), I was able to try what might be the best pho in the world.

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Best pho

Pho ga. So many things must come together to make an excellent bowl of pho. We walked an hour to get to this pho ga place, and it was definitely the best I’ve had yet.

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Kangaroo. At the other end of the spectrum from street pho is French cuisine. I had kangaroo carpaccio and duck foie gras. The kangaroo was sort of a cross between beef and venison, but not overly gamey.

1

A Storm

Posted by Greg T. on November 23rd, 2006 in Uncategorized

Tropical storms are like tropical bugs, they’re bigger,scarier and move faster. A storm rolled in the day before yesterday. The buildup was out of a movie. The deep red orange sunset seeping through an overcast sky left everything covered in a eerily warm colored, yet soft light. The wind picked up. Dogs started barking and freaking out. And all of a sudden it began to pour. It was the strongest rain I’d ever seen, accompanied by thunder and lightining directly overhead. I got caught in a bus stop and couldn’t leave as the 50 foot dash across the street would have left me completely soaked. I met a kind university student. Her friend made a run to a store across the street and bought disposable ponchos for everyone. With means of keeping (my camera) dry, I ventured out into the storm…

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The storm front rolls in.
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The rain wreaked havoc on the normally hectic moto traffic. I saw several accidents while waiting at the bus stop.
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I turned a corner and saw this. At first it didn’t even dawn on me that is was abnormal. I just assumed if it rains alot, the streets fill with water. I started walking through the New Orleans-type water (smelled like sewage) and soon realized that 2 feet of standing water that had flooded the first floor of every shop was not normal. Apparently, some of the storm drains were clogged with trash (trash is thrown in the gutter for daily pick up). Fortunately nobody has carpet, floors are tile an walls are concrete, so a foot of water in your home is merely a minor inconvenience.
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storm5.jpgJust odd. We walked into a “drug store” or “clinic,” I’m not sure what it was. There were 3 girls quietly sitting with their feet up out of the water. They weren’t doing anything, just sitting and waiting. To top things off, the computer was on and working.

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Many people tried to “ford the river” and subsequently “lost their oxen.” Aka the water flooded the mufflers of their scooters and stalled the engine.
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Looks like after the storm, but really from before the storm. A boy leaps over a puddle.

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0

All Nighter, Haircut

Posted by Greg T. on November 14th, 2006 in Uncategorized

I accidentally stayed up all night. I came to learn that thousands of people also do the same in Hanoi. I ran into an enourmous wholesale market several blocks from our hotel. There were thousands of street vendors buying fruit, vegetables, meat, fish and other products all through the night to prepare for the next day of vending.

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Early Morning Color. This is how it felt at 5 in the morning. Trash collectors clean up the aftermath from part of the wholesale market on the street.
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A lot of everything. Vendors rush around buying up products for the day. Upon leaving, the women in blue jackets would give a bundle of leaves to some of the vendors, perhaps it’s for good luck?

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The 8 hour haircut. I took Matt back to the barber shop where I had my hair cut. He got his hair cut, and opted for the wash/rinse also. The wash rinse turned into a weird face massage which turned into hanging out with the barber shop crew (2 guys and 4 girls about our age) and then dinner.

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Face Massage. A face and neck massage comes standard with hair washing. Some of the massage techniques were a bit unusual including cheek slapping, nose massaging and girl nail scalp scraping, but Matt seems to be having fun.

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Lee’s Sandwiches, Vietnam. I haven’t found a Lee’s Sandwiches yet. But there are stands everywhere that sell the same thing. Fresh baked French roll, pate, herbs, veggies, hot sauce….better than Lee’s.

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Ba Trang

Posted by Greg T. on November 11th, 2006 in Uncategorized

We went to Ba Trang, a huge pottery making town.

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12

Eating a Still-Beating Cobra Heart

Posted by Greg T. on November 6th, 2006 in Travel

So I read in the lonely planet Vietnam cuisine book that at some restaurants you can drink cobra blood and eat the still-beating heart.  Consuming cobra is supposed to increase male virility.  I’m not here to eat spring rolls (not that good so far), I’m here for some crazy ass shit.

One area in Hanoi is known for its cobra restaurants, so we taxied on out.  Our friend/guide found a decent looking establishment.  We entered.  On one side of the patio was a large cage with lots of sickly-looking poisonous snakes.  Inside the main room were glass vessels of all shapes and sizes filled with snakes and liquor (see photo).  After the initial ooohs and aaaahs and picture taking, we chose a snake from the cage.  With it’s head in a death grip that probably broke the snakes neck, the proprietor let us touch the skin.  It was just snake skin.  He handed the snake over to two assistants/snakehandlers/cooks/family members and they proceeded to slit it open near its head (see photo), drain the blood into a vessel, remove the heart and remove the gall bladder.  The heart was placed in a shot glass for later consumption and the gall bladder was placed in a larger vessel, then mixed with alcohol making a bright green bile flavor liquor. The blood was also mixed with alcohol making a bright red liquor.

We were taken upstairs to a 3rd floor patio that overlooked the surrounding neighborhood. We took a round of shots of the fresh cobra blood mixture. I was the oldest, so had the pleasure of shooting the bile-soaked still-beating heart. If you didn’t know that it was snake blood, bile, and heart, it’s really just like taking shots. For the weak, you could chase it with cucumber and flat bread. The rest of the snake is cooked in 4 different ways–the meat is stir-fried with some veggies, the bones are crunched up and fried into egg rolls, one unidentifiable part is mashed up and formed into small fried patties, and the skin is rolled up, battered and fried into little snake skin poppers. It all tastes pretty good, if you can get over the fact that you’re eating a cobra that was killed only 20 minutes before.

After the meal, the proprietor brought out 3 more snake-based liquors: one with caramelized snake broth and tree fungus, one with snake heads and one with medicinal root and snake reproductive organs. He basically had us doing rounds of snake liqour and by the end of the meal, we all felt pretty damn strong, probably because we were pretty damn faded. I think the “male virility” aspect of meal is a lie, but either way is was a great experience.

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Vessels. Our Vietnamese friend, Bing, checks out the many vessels of preserved snake and snake alcohol. The best vessel had a cobra with a large scorpion in its mouth.

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Death. The snake is drained.

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Cheers. Shooting the snake blood.

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Snake head liqour.

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The food. Who knew that snake could be prepared so many different ways?

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The Proprietor. He got trashed and started smoking two cigarettes and eating leaves off of a bush to demonstrate how he overcomes poisonous snake bites.

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The Scene. Vietnam is beautiful.

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2

Beijing Rewind

Posted by Greg T. on November 4th, 2006 in Uncategorized

I never posted the obligatory Bejing toursit pictures. Here we go…

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WeiXia.

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Outside of the Forbidden City. The Forbidden City is by no means forbidden. Way too toursity though.

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Chinese social worker outside of Mao Ze Dong’s Mausoleum. We didn’t see the Chairman.

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Chinese tourists posing with the Chairman.

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0

Vietnam (Skip Beijing)

Posted by Greg T. on November 2nd, 2006 in Uncategorized

I’m in Hanoi, Vietnam. It is beautiful. The first morning I did one of things I’ve been waiting all trip to do–get a wonderous 65 cent bowl of pho on the street corner across from our hotel. Best pho ever.

To put it simply, Hanoi is an Asian France. I can’t describe it right now.

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Pho in Hanoi.

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On the way from the airport to our hotel, the bus broke down. It burned through what looked like an accessory belt. Fortunately they had about 10 extra belts, and all of the necessary tools and skills to fix the bus.

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Jessica wearing a makeshift cat ears in an attempt to celebrate Halloween, waits for the bus to be repaired.

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